Ploopy Trackball Kit Assembly, Revision C
Do not flash new firmware until you've verified that the electronics are all working.
That means, finish building the trackball, plug it in, use the stock firmware for about five minutes. Verify the buttons are all clicking. Verify that the cursor is moving. Verify that the scroll wheel works. Unplug the trackball, hold the "forward" button (the button immediately to the right of the ball), plug it in, let go of the "forward" button, and verify that the trackball is in "bootloader" mode (the cursor won't be moving).
Once you've verified that it all works, you're good to go flashing new firmware.
These instructions are for the Revision C of the Ploopy Classic Trackball kit. You can easily tell if you have a RevC Ploopy Classic by looking at the Top (the main body of the trackball). On its underside, there should be a letter embossed into the body, which should say "C" on it (instead of "D", "B", or "A"). If it says "C", these are the instructions for you.
Another clear giveaway is that your kit includes threaded metal inserts. If these are included in your kit, you have the RevC Ploopy Classic kit.
In this section, you'll go over how to build a trackball from the official Ploopy trackball kit.
Note that some of these pictures were taken at different times, so they may show a bit of inconsistency in between steps.
- 2.5mm Allen key or screwdriver (comes with your kit)
- Soldering iron
- #1 Phillips head screwdriver (or similar size)
- Solder
- PCB anchor
The jig will be used to hold the PCBs together at precisely the correct angle during the soldering process.
- Base PCB with all components soldered
- Vertical PCB with all components soldered
DO NOT USE GLUE. This has the possibility of affecting alignment in later steps.
- Again, DO NOT USE GLUE.
- Make sure that the PCBs are seated fully and completely against the PCB anchor.
Make sure that the electronics assembly is seated fully in the assembly jig. This step is crucial; misalignment during this stage will virtually guarantee that the buttons will not function.
- Set the soldering iron's temperature to much higher than normal, as the pads are large and shed heat quickly, and cold solder joints here will result in poor electrical connections
- Apply the right amount of solder to ensure a good connection and good mechanical strength, but not too much that it makes it easy to form cold joints
This may require a bit of force. The electronics assembly is fairly strong, but don't impart unnecessary force onto the assembly.
The following 3D-printed parts have support material on them:
- Top
- Base (look in the holes meant for the screws)
- Primary buttons
- Secondary buttons
- Scroll wheel holder holder
"Support material" is more hollow than the structural plastic. You'll have to remove it before you continue with the assembly.
Most of the time, it can be removed using nothing but your fingers. If you find a bit of support material is sticking, use a pair of pliers or tweezers to scrape it off. Be careful not to damage the parts as you remove the support material, especially on the scroll wheel holder holder.
Here's a video on removing support material.
Prepare the following components:
- Electronics assembly
- Scroll wheel holder
- Scroll wheel holder holder
- Stop laughing at the names already.
- More importantly, the insertion step should be done very gently. These parts are quite delicate. Take your time and don't bend things unnecessarily.
- Ensure that the plastic part is oriented correctly
- The plastic part requires a bit of force to get into the PCB; be careful not to damage the electronics assembly
- Press the plastic part on its edges, NOT the middle, as you may break the part if you depress the middle too hard
- Note: Once you've finished building the trackball, if the wheel is spinning poorly or sticking in some places, then it's probably because the scroll wheel holder holder isn't flush against the PCB. All kits come with a spare scroll wheel holder holder, so try replacing it and see if that fixes the issue.
Prepare the following components:
- Base
- 2x heat-set threaded inserts
Take your time and go slowly. A soldering iron temperature of 220C or 430F is hot enough.
- Electronics assembly
- Base
- Primary buttons
- Secondary buttons
- 2x M3x6mm socket cap machine screws
The electronics assembly is seated on the base, but it does not attach. It will eventually be pressed down by the Top, so don't worry about that here.
When driving the screw, use your free hand to gently twist the secondary buttons clockwise (away from the PCB). This will ensure that the distance between the buttons and the switches is correct.
A common problem that occurs once the top is placed onto the mouse is that these buttons will become stuck. If that is the case, take the top off the mouse and adjust the secondary buttons. You can twist them either clockwise or counterclockwise by about a degree or so, while keeping them flat against the base. Eventually, you should be able to find a position that allows the buttons to operate correctly.
Prepare the following components:
- Scroll wheel
- Silicone ring
- 2x 3mm x 18mm metal dowels
- You will likely require a hammer to push the pin into the scroll wheel. If you don't need one, consider yourself lucky.
- The pin on the flat side of the scroll wheel will stick out 10.4mm when the pin is fully inserted.
- The pin on the other side of the scroll wheel will stuck out 13.6mm when the pin is fully inserted.
Silicone is quite strong and doesn't rip easily.
The plastic parts can flex to accommodate the angle at which the wheel is inserted. Nice and gentle, now.
Gently give the scroll wheel a spin. It should spin freely with no resistance. If there is resistance, take a screwdriver and hollow out a bit of material from the scroll wheel holder until there is no resistance. Be careful, though: if the fit is too lose, the scroll wheel will jostle during regular use.
When driving the screw, use your free hand to gently twist the primary buttons clockwise (towards the PCB). This will ensure that the distance between the buttons and the switches is correct.
Again, just like for the secondary buttons, a common problem that occurs once the top is placed onto the mouse is that these buttons will become stuck. If that is the case, take the top off the mouse and adjust the primary buttons. You can twist them either clockwise or counterclockwise by about a degree or so, while keeping them flat against the base. Eventually, you should be able to find a position that allows the buttons to operate correctly.
Prepare the following parts:
- Top
- 4x heat-set threaded inserts
- 3x roller bearing dowels
- 3x MR63ZZ roller bearings
- Use the included Allen key to clear the hole in the top
- Twist the Allen key back and forth while it is inserted
- Use a small amount of force; if the hole is loosened too much, the scroll wheel will jostle in an unpleasant way during regular use
- Make sure that the Allen key is inserted all of the way into the hole, so as to clear or crush obstructions
Take your time and go slowly. A soldering iron temperature of 220C or 430F is hot enough.
Step 28: Insert the roller bearing and a Roller Bearing Dowel into the halves of the Bearing Press Jig
This may require a surprising amount of force. Try your best not to bend the Roller Bearing Dowel, but if you do, there should be spares with your kit parts.
At the end, all of your bearings should look like this.
- Ensure that the bearings are pressed all the way into the case. If the bearings aren't seated all the way, there's a good chance that the ball will become badly scratched.
- Needle nose pliers or some similar tool can be used to ensure that the bearing is fully seated.
To put the Top on:
- Align the USB-B connector with the Top.
- Put your thumb on the primary buttons and your index and middle finger on the secondary buttons, and depress the buttons gently. (They should click.)
- Pull the Top (it will bend slightly) until the peg from the scroll wheel enters its sheath in the Top.
- Press the Top into the Base with gentle but firm pressure until the two are seated together entirely.
- Here's a video showing the above steps.
To remove:
- Put your thumb on the primary buttons and your index and middle finger on the secondary buttons, and depress the buttons gently. (They should click.)
- Lift the rear end of the Top until the scroll wheel peg slips out of its sheath in the Top.
- Pull the Top off.
- Here's a video showing the above steps.
Two of the holes are for the countersunk screws, and two are for the socket cap screws. It should be pretty evident which of these is which.
Depending on slight size variations, you might need to push the ball in with some force, but it shouldn't require a large amount of force.
Plug the trackball into your computer. The buttons should be clicking, and if you move the ball, it should move the cursor.
If the buttons are stuck, take the top off and adjust the primary and secondary buttons by rotating them slightly in their bases and trying again.
The bearings are a bit scratchy when they're new. To prevent them from jumping around during initial use, spin the ball with some Latin dance vigour for about three minutes. That should be enough to break them in.
Congrats, you finished building the Ploopy Trackball!
It's done! Love it, use it, but don't you dare abuse it!